The following are standard installation guidelines for a typical sand-set paver application. IMPORTANT: Vehicular applications, such as a driveway or parking lot, require separate guidelines and one should consult a Mutual Materials representative, contractor, or engineer before installing pavers for these purposes.
For help locating a contractor, please contact Mutual Materials. Mark area to be paved with stakes and string lines at the desired finished elevation. This will allow room for the edge restraint system. Slope can be in more than one direction depending on jobsite circumstances. Water will not penetrate joints unless it is allowed to puddle or remain in an area.
Remove any loose soils after excavation is complete. This will allow the plate compactor to glide across area without sticking to sub grade. Compact the entire subgrade soils with a plate compactor. Base rock should have a certain amount of moisture content. Repeat steps until final base elevation is achieved. Remember, the final product will mirror the base elevation.
Any deviation in base should be corrected at this time with base rock not sand. Any edge not retained by a solid, rigid structure i. These are easier to install after the pavers are laid. With spray nozzle, carefully moisten sand bed around perimeter of paver area. Remove excess sand around the perimeter with a trowel without disturbing the base.
Make sure that all edges are contained before compaction of pavers. Place pipes parallel to each other and almost as wide as the strike board 2 x 4. Place sand in between pipes and pull strike board across both pipes. Pull pipes out of sand; fill pipe voids with sand and trowel smooth. Do not compact sand bed. Depending on the type of paver and pattern, starting points and direction of installation will vary.
More times then not, opt for the easiest access with the longest run where no cutting will be made. Also consider more visual areas i. Pavers should be placed gently onto the sand bed and not pushed into it.
Do not hammer-set pavers. After installing a larger area, place plywood on top of pavers to walk around on. This will distribute weight so individual pavers will not get embedded into sand before adjustments and final compaction is done.
Slight adjusting can be accomplished by moving pavers to desired spot by inserting a flat head screwdriver in between pavers and pushing them. Any mistakes made here could result in issues later on down the road such as uneven pavers or dips in the paver surface or possibly even a compromise in the structural integrity of the project.
Once the bedding sand has been screeded, do not walk on it or disturb it in any way. You may find it helpful to pop some chalk lines to use as guides and ensure that the pavers are square in relation to the house.. When laying the pavers stand on the pavers that have already been installed and work your way out. Do not stand on the leveled base material while installing the pavers. This will disrupt the levels you have just perfected. A common technique used by hardscapers to lay brick pavers called the "click-click-drop" method.
Quite simply what this means is, as you are laying a paver into your pattern, holding the paver an inch or so above the base, you bring the paver so that one side contacts the side of a paver you have already laid. For rounded edges, you can use a flexible piece of small diameter pvc or a garden hose as a guide to mark the pavers where they need to be cut. Make sure to account for the soldier row or border when determining where to make your cuts.
After determining the pavers that need to be cut, you can draw a line on them or use a chalk line to see where each paver needs to be cut. Please use caution when cutting the concrete pavers. Using concrete is a very popular and cost effective choice for an edge restraint. Other choices exist such as plastic or aluminum edge restraints that use spikes to hold them in place. Using a flat shovel, dig straight down the edge of the brick pavers a minimum of 6 inches deep.
Continue to dig a trench pulling the soil away from the edge of the pavers while being cautious not to disturb the base aggregate, bedding sand, or the pavers. Using a trowel, apply the concrete into the trench being sure to press it in place to avoid any air getting trapped and to ensure that the concrete is pressed firmly against the pavers and base materials.
Do not come more than halfway up the paver with the concrete. Slope the concrete downard away from the pavers so that grass or sod grass will be able to grow up to the edge of your paver project. This will also help keep the pavers stabilized.
Use mason sand or concrete sand for sanding the joints between the brick pavers. Make sure that the sand is dry otherwise it will be difficult to get the sand to settle between the joints properly.
If using polymeric sand, be sure to closely follow the instructions on the bag. Failure to do so may damage the surface of your brick pavers. Pour or shovel the sand onto the brick pavers and sweep into the joints using a push broom. Run the compactor over the surface of the pavers.
Sweep more sand into the joints and repeat running the compactor over the pavers. In addition, these polymeric sands are permeable, allowing rainwater and oxygen to permeate. Possibly the most critical issue with sand set pavers is the edge restraints. Edge restraints can range from typical paver edging strips and spikes to poured concrete curbs and sidewalks. The edges can push out, which in turn causes the paving system to sink and start to experience issues with maintaining its designed level.
It is to be expected that sand set pavers will require periodic ongoing maintenance to fix areas that have moved, dipped to vehicular patterns. Ongoing long-term maintenance costs should be factored into the life cycle analysis of sand set paving systems. Bitumen Set Pavers Bitumen set pavers are considered the middle ground as far as cost is concerned.
A suitable concrete base or a three- to six-inch bituminous binder base placed over a compacted aggregate base eight inches is required for this installation system.
This layer acts as an adhesive as the pavers are dropped into place. Once the pavers are set into place, the joints are filled in similar fashion to the sand set pavers with traditional masonry sand or polymeric sand. The bitumen layer is not considered a permanently fixed system in that the bitumen does allow some movement to take place.
However, this method also requires good edge restraint to prevent paver separation and edge blow out. In addition, over time, vehicular traffic patterns can still reflect in the finish layer as the bitumen can experience long term fatigue. Mortar Set Pavers Of the three installation types, the mortar set system is considered to be the most permanent fixing system.
The mortar set system typically requires a concrete base and aggregate drainage layer beneath the concrete slab. Once the concrete slab is in place and properly cured e.
The thick bed methods bonded or unbonded or the bonded thin bed method can be used for this application. Mortar set installation - thin bed Mortar set pavers are permanently fixed in place and require little long-term maintenance. Of the three paver setting methods, mortar set pavers have the lowest life cycle cost. Paver protection Exterior pavers can be exposed to any number of potentials spills, oils, contaminants and other types of soiling as well exposure to impact and scuffing damage.
The coatings come in a variety of finish types including brilliant high gloss, wet look finish, color enriching finish and no gloss finish type. Some of these sealer types will deepen and enhance the inherent color of the paver, while drying to a clear finish that will not leave the surface slippery.
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